Over nearly 20 years AllSaints has championed an aestheic which is very much rooted in the high grunge era in which it was founded. Battered leather and denim, boiled wool and pre-scuffed footwear are all part of a formula which has at times been hugely successful, while at others has left the company on the brink of administration . There are hopes that a new international expansion programme will reverse its fortunes. What's also interesting is that over the last few seasons there have been signs that All Saints is expanding its remit and offering a more lighthearted element to its collection. This spring, a lighter colour palette, micro floral prints and Superman motifs sit alongside the trademark rock tees and leather jackets. Even the impeccably dressed Eddie Redmayne - who we're used to seeing in Burberry and Dior Homme - gave AllSaints the thumbs up with a head to toe look at the MTV Music Awards last month. And you can't get much less grunge than Eddie, can you?
There is some pleasing material innovation from the British heritage brand Grenson this season, not least in its application of ('mock') cork and denim to a pair of wing cap Oxfords. The Gibson shoe is based on the shape of Grenson's traditional Stanley shoe. There's also a version whose upper is made completely from the the flexible cork-like material. Both cost £170.